De Arte Hair Studio

How to Identify Your Scalp Type & Choose the Right Shampoo

POSTED ON November 11, 2025

So, how shall we start?

Healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp. But not all scalps are the same. Some are oily, others dry, and some are more sensitive than you think. Choosing the right shampoo starts with understanding your scalp type and knowing how your shampoo’s ingredients work together to cleanse, balance, and protect.

In this guide, we’ll explore:

Step 1: Identify Your Scalp Type

Each hair grows from a follicle, which has a tiny oil-producing gland called a sebaceous gland. This oil, called sebum, moisturizes your scalp, protects your hair, and helps guard against bacteria and fungi. At the base of the follicle, new cells are continuously produced in the hair bulb. These new cells push older cells upward, where they harden into keratin and form the visible hair. Meanwhile, the scalp’s skin cells are also constantly renewing: as new cells form at the base of the skin, older ones die and rise to the surface, eventually shedding as dead skin. Sometimes dead skin cells mix with excess oil or product buildup, which can clog follicles and slow or disrupt healthy hair growth. The right shampoo helps keep your scalp balanced (not too oily, not too dry).

Oily Scalp (overactive sebaceous gland)

Common Signs
Feels greasy soon after washing, limp roots, product buildup

Recommended Shampoo
Deep-cleansing or balancing shampoos with clarifying surfactants

Dry Scalp (underactive sebaceous gland)

Common Signs
Tight, flaky, itchy

Recommended Shampoo
Moisturizing, sulfate-free shampoos with amino acids and oils

Normal Scalp (balanced sebaceous glands)

Common Signs
Feels clean and comfortable for 2–3 days after washing

Recommended Shampoo
Balanced, gentle formulas

Sensitive or Damaged Scalp

Common Signs
Redness, irritation, tingling after wash

Recommended Shampoo
Mild, soothing shampoos with gentle surfactants and calming extracts

In country with humid climate, many people experience oily roots but dry ends, a sign you may need a balancing shampoo that cleanses effectively without stripping moisture. You might be interested in 4 Common Scalp Problems in Singapore.
Step 2: How Surfactants Work

Surfactants are the cleansing agents in shampoo. They have two ends: one that attracts oil and dirt (hydrophobic) and one that attracts water (hydrophilic), which helps wash away grease, buildup, and impurities. The “charge” of a surfactant refers to the electric charge present on the water-loving (hydrophilic) end of the molecule.

Here are the main types used in modern, gentle formulations:

Anionic

Charge
Negative

Example
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES SO₄⁻), TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate (–COO⁻)

Function
Effective cleansing and foaming

Gentleness
Medium to strong

Cationic

Charge
Positive

Example
Polyquaternium-10 (NR₄⁺)

Function
Conditions and smooths hair

Gentleness
Very gentle

Nonionic

Charge
No charge

Example
Cocamide MEA (–OH hydroxyl group)

Function
Adds mildness, stabilizes foam

Gentleness
Gentle

Amphoteric

Charge
Both

Example
Lauramidopropyl Betaine (COO⁻ and +NR₃⁺)

Function
Balances harshness, improves foam

Gentleness
Very gentle

The “charge” affects how the surfactant interacts with hair and skin. Negative charges clean well but can be harsher, positive charges condition hair, and neutral or amphoteric ones keep things gentle. Modern mild shampoos often mix mild anionic + amphoteric surfactants to give effective cleansing without irritation.

Step 3: SLS & SLES — Are They Good or Bad?

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are common surfactants found in many shampoos and cleansers. Known for their strong foaming and cleansing abilities, they can be highly effective at removing oil and buildup.

Ingredient Function Pros Cons
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Strong detergent and foaming agent
Deep cleans oily scalp
Can strip natural oils
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Gentler derivative of SLS
Smooth, effective foam
May still dry sensitive scalps

✔️ Ideal for oily scalps needing deep cleansing

✔️ Avoid for dry, sensitive, or color-treated hair

✔️ Although amino acid–based surfactants like TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate are anionic (with a negatively charged COO⁻ head), unlike traditional sulfate-based anionic surfactants such as SLES, they are much milder on skin and hair and do not contain harsh sulfates, making them gentle, sulfate-free alternatives for cleansing.

💡 Key point: ‘Anionic’ only describes the charge, not the harshness. The chemical structure of the head group and the tail determines how gentle or strong the surfactant is.

 

A Note for Sensitive Scalps
If your scalp tends to react easily, it’s not just surfactants you should check, preservatives matter too.
Certain synthetic preservatives used in personal care, such as Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI), Methylisothiazolinone (MI), DMDM Hydantoin, Glycolactone, or Imidazolidinyl Urea, can occasionally cause irritation or allergic reactions in very sensitive individuals.

Our Miyaki shampoos range use MCI/MI in strictly regulated, low concentrations that meet international cosmetic safety standards, ensuring freshness and microbial protection.

⚠️ If you have a known sensitivity or allergy, we recommend performing a patch test before use or consulting your dermatologist for guidance. This transparent approach helps keep our formulas safe, effective, and suitable for most scalps, while acknowledging that extra-sensitive skin may need specialized care.

Step 4: Ingredient Analysis — Our Formulas for Every Scalp

Now that you understand your scalp type and the role of surfactants and preservatives, let’s break down how our shampoos are formulated. This step highlights the key ingredients in each formula, showing how they target specific scalp needs while keeping hair healthy, balanced, and nourished.

300/ 600ml
For dry or damaged hair

Select options This product has multiple variants. The options may be chosen on the product page

300/ 600ml
For Oily Scalp

Select options This product has multiple variants. The options may be chosen on the product page

300/ 600ml
For Normal to Combination Scalp

Select options This product has multiple variants. The options may be chosen on the product page

All three Miyaki shampoos Root Balancing, Repairing, and Scalp Balancing contain key natural ingredients that help nourish, protect, and soothe the scalp and hair. These include Loquat Extract, Swertia Japonica Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Safflower Extract, and Licorice Extract (Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate).

Although these ingredients are common across all three formulas, the concentration and combination of each extract are tailored to address specific hair and scalp concerns. The Repairing Shampoo uses these extracts to restore moisture and strengthen damaged hair. The Root Balancing Shampoo focuses on rebalancing the scalp and controlling oil. The Scalp Balancing Shampoo helps hydrate and soothe irritation for a more comfortable scalp.

Shampoo Surfactants Key Function Ideal For Sulfate-Free
Repairing
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Repair, moisture
Dry/damaged hair
Root Balancing
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine
Deep cleanse, refresh
Oily scalp
Scalp Balancing
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine
Gentle balance
Normal/combination scalp

Healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp. I know this has been said many time, but that’s because it’s true and important. By understanding your scalp type and the role of surfactants and preservatives, you can choose a shampoo that supports and not stresses your natural balance.

🌿 Oily scalp? Try our Root Balancing Shampoo for a refreshing cleanse.
🌾 Dry or damaged hair? Choose our Repairing Shampoo, rich in amino acids and oils.
🌸 Normal or slightly sensitive scalp? Our Scalp Balancing Shampoo keeps everything in harmony.

Each of our Miyaki shampoo is formulated with botanical extracts and modern natural surfactants, combining nature and science for scalp health that truly shows. Not sure which shampoo suits you best? Message us on Messenger and we’ll guide you! 🙂